Sep 28, 2023

Source: Source: Source: Source: Speaking at the brand’s 59 Greek Street pop-up store in Soho, London this morning (28 September), Goldwin's general manager#, Takuya Kinami, said that since its founding in 1951 in Japan, the business had “damaged the environment significantly” with its garment production – something it has been working to rectify through an eight-year partnership with Japanese biotechnology company Spiber. The majority of sports and performance clothing is made using synthetic molecular materials (such as polyester or nylon) that are manufactured using petroleum, which has a high carbon footprint . Meanwhile the microplastics emissions from this process has recently become a global-scale environmental issue. Last year the European Environment Agency (EEA) estimated that more than 14 million tonnes of microplastics have accumulated on the world’s ocean floor. The amounts are increasing every year — causing harm to ecosystems, animals and humans. To address its carbon footprint and microplastics emissions, Goldwin began researching structural protein materials in collaboration with Spiber in 2015, including those put through a fermentation or brewing process. In comparison to animal-derived protein materials such as cashmere and wool, Spiber estimates that brewed protein fibre emits 79% less greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, uses 97% less water, and causes 99% less land-use related harm. The fibres also show more than 70% biodegradability in marine environments, meaning they do not have the same impact on the environment as fibres that release microplastics. Advertisement The pre-production life-cycle assessment (LCA) estimations are based on Spiber's polymer plant in Thailand and fibre spinning plant in Japan, assuming use of renewable electricity and plant operation at full capacity. That autumn, the brand announced a prototype outdoor jacket made using the material. In 2019, The North Face (for which the Goldwin group produces for the Japanese market) released T-shirts and outdoor jackets exclusively in Japan using brewed protein fibre, a structural protein material newly developed by Spiber. Since then Goldwin-managed brands, including menswear brand Woolrich, have released  a variety of products using the fibres — such as knitwear and fleeces. The collection launching on 29 September is Goldwin and Spiber's first full collection of garments using brewed protein technology, enabled by the company's recent expansion of its first commercial-scale plant in Rayong, Thailand last year. Spiber is also working to establish a large-scale production facility in Iowa, USA. Goldwin has set a goal to use brewed protein fibres in 10% of newly-developed products by 2030. The gender-neutral collection features core range Goldwin items including the 3L Jacket (a garment inspired by skiwear which served as the origin of the brand) priced at €1200 (£1000), the 3L Mac Coat at €1500EUR (£1200), and the 3L Tapered Pants at €700EUR (£600). The Soho pop-up runs until 30 September, and the collection is available to shop there and on Goldwin's website.