Sep 23, 2023

Andrei HarmsworthThe West Australian The once-dominating undies empire spreading its angel wings once more after a four-year hiatus. At its peaky best, the US lingerie firm served up a bedroom fantasy for shoppers to aspire to, including a million dollar “fantasy bra” and raking in over $US1 billion of lingerie sales. It resurrected the careers of supermodels Naomi Campbell, Heidi Klum, Adriana Lima and Gisele Bündchen. It launched sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid, and Candice Swanepoel, Cara Delevingne and Miranda Kerr into the stratosphere. When the times were good, no expense was spared for the runway shows with budgets as high as $12 million. Camera Icon The once-dominating undies empire spreading its angel wings once more after a four-year hiatus. Credit: Evan Agostini/Evan Agostini/Invision/AP Little did the famous angels know that 2018’s production at New York’s Pier 94 on Manhattan’s Upper West Side would be their last…until now. On that night, the show reached its climax with Shawn Mendes, Rita Ora, Hasley, Bebe Rexha and The Chainsmokers all performing for the hip-stomping beauties. Kerr said getting called to be an angel was the fashion pinnacle. “I remember seeing Adriana (Lima) and Alessandra (Ambrosio) and Gisele (Bündchen) and I was just blown away by their beauty and their energy and their confidence,” the 40-year-old Aussie beauty said. “I remember thinking, ‘Oh my goodness, what am I doing here?’ All these women are just so stunning. And then after a couple of years, I got into the swing of things and we had a lot of fun together. Victoria’s Secret really launched my modelling career internationally and put my name out there. I really did have a very positive experience.” But the knickers threads of Victoria unravelled spectacularly quickly to reveal her secrets. Claims of misogyny and promoting unhealthy body image quickly bubbled. Camera Icon At its peaky best, the US lingerie firm served up a bedroom fantasy for shoppers to aspire to, including a million dollar “fantasy bra” and raking in over $US1 billion of lingerie sales. Credit: Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage Camera Icon They say go woke, go broke and it’s a theory sunken lingerie giant Victoria’s Secret is about to put to the test. Credit: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Victoria's Secr CEO Les Wexner was linked to shamed sex trafficker Jeffrey Epstein. Former chief marketing officer of parent company L Brands, Edward Razek, was accused of running a “culture of misogyny, bullying, and harassment.” He unashamedly rejected the notion of sending trans and plus-size models down the runway on the eve of the 2018 show. “I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy. It’s a 42-minute entertainment special. That’s what it is,” he told Vogue Runway. With the drag and trans community now playing a significant part in lingerie’s social media presence, he was quickly left to say sorry. “My remark regarding the inclusion of transgender models in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show came across as insensitive. I apologise,” he said, “To be clear, we absolutely would cast a transgender model for the show. We’ve had transgender models come to castings… And like many others, they didn’t make it…But it was never about gender. I admire and respect their journey to embrace who they really are.” Perth’s Bridget Malcom revolted. The model accused the company of dumping her for being “too big”. Camera Icon When the times were good, no expense was spared for the runway shows with budgets as high as $12 million. Credit: Andy Wong/AP “My body was malnourished, my mind was malnourished, it was relentless. What that company represented for me and for so many other women was extremely exploitative at that time,” she said in 2021. “To me it felt like controlling women.” Sales fell. Owner L Brands’ stock tumbled 60 per cent in 2018. So did TV ratings. The company cut its losses in 2019 after realising it was out of step and out of touch and axed the famous runway shows. It’s demise was documented in a three-part series Victoria’s Secret: Angels and Demons. Now Victoria’s Secret is back but treading lightly in a new woke fashion world. Its second coming is in the form of an 85-minute fashion documentary film on Amazon Prime on Tuesday. The show will feature designers from all over the globe including Bogota, Tokyo, Lagos and London. Traditional fans shouldn’t hold their breath for the return of leggy size zero stars. Camera Icon Little did the famous angels know that 2018’s production at New York’s Pier 94 on Manhattan’s Upper West Side would be their last…until now. Credit: Kevin Mazur/WireImage Expect new faces such Winne Harlow — a Canadian model and spokeswoman for the skin condition Vitiligo. This year’s ensemble looks set to include British plus-size model Paloma Elsesser and Kanye West’s ex Julia Fox, who has been seen in angel wings this week on the streets of New York. While the $116 billion brand will set out its stall to be more inclusive, they won’t be binning off all their familiar model stable. Gigi Hadid was among the Victoria’s Secret alumni standing by its comeback when she rocked up to the 2023 Victoria’s Secret World Tour event in New York earlier this month. Others past walkers joined her at the Hammerstein Ballroom, including Campbell, Swanepoel and Emily Ratajkowski. The trio join Hadid in the new show. The company signalled their stark change of tack last year. They challenged their critics in a new look promo of their VSNow campaign. They tweeted “Think you know us?” What followed was a video promo of lingerie, this time modelled by curvy women from different ethnicities, including one in a wheel chair and one that was pregnant. “We’ve changed,” it declared. “We promise to advocate for you,” it went on to say insisting their knickers are for “real” people. As Victoria’s Secret lost itself in the wash, the likes of Rihanna moved in to claim their turf. The Umbrella singer pounced on the gap in the market and the women Victoria’s Secret had alienated with their expensive size zero undies. Camera Icon The Umbrella singer pounced on the gap in the market and the women Victoria’s Secret had alienated with their expensive size zero undies. Credit: Instagram/TheWest The singer turned herself in to a billionaire business woman with her Savage X range that catered to all shapes, sizes and colours. The brand has is valued at more than a $US1b dollars and in June Rhianna stepped down as CEO after five years of unchecked success. “When I imagine something, I imagine everyone I know and love being a part of it. I want to make stuff I can see on the people I know, and they come in all different shapes, sizes, races, and religions,” she said. Camera Icon The brand has is valued at more than a $US1b dollars and in June Rhianna stepped down as CEO after five years of unchecked success. Credit: Francois G. Durand/WireImage Her empire isn’t the only one VS have to contend with. American Eagle’s Aerie undies speaks the same universal language. “Aerie’s goal is to promote body positivity and make women feel good,” it declares. Others like Lively and Thirdlove have similar aspirations. Bra start-up Thirdlove warned VS are for the recycling pile. “In five years, Victoria’s Secret won’t be able to market what they do today,” said co-founder and CEO Heidi Zak. “I don’t know if they will carry larger sizes. I don’t know if that’s in their ethos. But change is being forced by more women and more companies,” she said, A Victoria’s Secret & Co. spokesperson insisted a leopard can change its lingerie spots and their comeback will “reinforce our commitment to championing women’s voices and their unique perspectives.” “Our new brand projection and mission will continue to be our guiding principle.” “This will lead us into new spaces like reclaiming one of our best marketing and entertainment properties to date and turning it on its head to reflect who we are today. We’re excited to share more later this year.” Vice-President Raúl Martinez said the film will mark its new chapter of marketing individuality. “This film is the ultimate expression of the Victoria’s Secret brand transformation,” Martinez told Harper’s BAZAAR, adding it will “celebrate the individuality of women’s stories and perspectives.” But one former executive, who worked at the group for nine years is unconvinced the brand has learnt its lesson “They have this antiquated idea of what sexy is,” the former employee said. “It’s changing, we are all changing and without making the right adjustments to the product and the voice you put out there, I don’t know what their future is.” The resurrection will come down to stock prices rather than stockings. UBS analyst Jay Sole previously warned on Victoria’s Secret’s big challenge: “The pivotal question on the stock is can L Brands rehabilitate the Victoria’s Secret brand image?” Only the aftermath of Tuesday night will tell.