Beyond Closet

Mar 27, 2023

Fashion AW23 collection of Blr Bluer, Caruso and Holy Number 7 (fromleft to right). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight The designers at Seoul Fashion Week create very bold designs andexperiment with different silhouettes, asymmetry and patterns. Although black plays an important role in many of the collections,colours and bright creations can also be seen. On the other hand, there aredark looks like Iryuk's, which are reminiscent of the gothic scene, andstyles with a lot of leather. Then there are very sporty, young styles forGen Z as well as designs that, like Lie Sang Bong, revive the culturalheritage of South Korea with a modern twist, through their use of cuts,patterns and fabrics. As diverse as the collections and styles are, the range of younger andlong-established designers and collectives is equally broad. For example,the 'Seoul Collection' format has been around since the turn of themillennium, where "top Korean designers" show their lines. Together withthe 'Generation Next' format, which promotes independent brands under theage of seven, these two concepts make up today's Seoul Fashion Week.FashionUnited has formed an overview of the more than 30 shows forautumn/winter 23 and summarised the highlights and trends. AW23 collections of Lie Sang Bong, Iryuk and Kwak Hyun JooCollection (left to right). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Sleeveless blazers One of the most popular pieces Seoul brands are experimenting with thisseason is the blazer. It's not necessarily about the silhouette and detailslike flared shoulders, but rather about less fabric. So some cropped styles were on show, but blazers with bare arms wereparticularly prominent. The label Mmam sent several versions straight downthe catwalk, including sleeveless ones and styles with sleeves hanging downbehind the arms. Lie showed a very wide waistcoat that was more like ablazer in silhouette and Iryuk exposed only one shoulder in an asymmetricalblazer. AW23 collections of Iryuk, Lie and Mmam (left to right).Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Collar overthrow Other brands, meanwhile, went for an extra layer for the shoulders.Beyond Closet showed several loose collars with hoods worn over t-shirts aswell as jackets. Acceptance Letter Studio created an olive green,high-necked quilted overthrow and M.Rof sent a lightweight harness with ahood in a cotton fabric down the runway. AW23 collections of Beyond Closet, M.Rof and AcceptanceLetter Studio (left to right). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Aprons and dungarees Acceptance Letter Studio also designed less experimental pieces andincorporated workwear into the collection. The brand presented a long,creamy white apron with a black leather insert. Charms also made use ofworkwear and created a rather simple pair of dungarees. M.Rof was more experimental again. The label showed a quilted light blueapron that went just above the hips and was held in place with only onediagonal strap. AW23 collections of Acceptance Letter Studio, Charms andM.Rof (left to right). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Stuffed animals Probably one of the cutest accessories and details seen during SeoulFashion Week were teddy bears and other cuddly animals. Whether clutchedtightly as a companion or as a detail on garments such as skirts, jumpersand jackets, the plush friends made for a heartwarming look. This trend wasseen at Lie, Greedilous and Ajobyajo. AW23 collections of Lie, Greedilous and Ajobyajo (left toright). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Buttons Another very popular detail at Seoul Fashion Week was buttons, whichwere used for various jackets and blazers at Beyond Closet, Not Enof WordsDearlife and Holy Number 7. The rule here seems to be: the more themerrier. AW23 collections of Beyond Closet, Not Enof Words Dearlifeand Holy Number 7 (left to right). Images: LaunchmetricsSpotlight Ivy League Some brands also seem to have looked across the Pacific for inspirationfrom US colleges and high schools. The reason for this could be the risingnationwide popularity of series like the teenage drama Euphoria, whosestyling and actors have already sparked a trend or two. Various types of school uniforms with cropped tops and mini skirts wereon display, and, of course, college jackets and looks with large logosreminiscent of sports teams were also not to be missed. Scattered jerseys were also on show, as seen at Ajobyajo. The label senta baseball jersey onto the catwalk, a sport that is also very popular inKorea. AW23 collections of Holy Number 7 (left and right) and KwakHyun Joo Collection (middle). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight AW23 collections of Not Enof Words Dearlife (left and right)and Ajobyajo (middle). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Three stripes Ul:kin and Ordinary People also remained sporty. Both brands haveintegrated Adidas trademarks into their collections. Ul:kin, for example,showed training pants with the 'Three Stripes' and an upside-down Adidaslogo. At Ordinary People, the logos of the Germany-based sportswear company- including the Trefoil of the Adidas Originals lifestyle line - appearedon several pieces, including a beret, a blazer and a balaclava. It is not clear whether these are official collaborations with theGerman sports brand. Adidas has not yet responded to an enquiry fromFashionUnited. Ordinary People, however, would argue against the fact thatin an associated Instagram post in which one of the pieces can be seen,Adidas did not receive any credits. AW23 collections of Ordinary People (left and right) andUl:kin (middle). Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight Live performances Overall, Seoul Fashion Week relies on a rather classic catwalk without aspecial venue, as is the case with many major European fashion houses.However, some brands still do a show - but mostly as a grand finale. Performances for the AW23 collections of Not Enof WordsDearlife, Miss Gee and Mmam (left to right). Images: LaunchmetricsSpotlight There was everything from dance and singing performances to the dragshow by Not Enof Words Dearlife, where artist Bori pulled his wig off hishead at the end. #whysocerealz! turned the whole presentation into aperformance with dance and drama - including various everyday situationssuch as scenes at school, in the gym and with a homeless person. You can watch the whole spectacle in the following video. Video: Seoul Fashion Week via Youtube But there was also a grand finale at the end of the fashion week, whereall the collections were shown again in an extra show. The spectacle wasaccompanied by a singer. This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE.Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.